The United Nations declared 2009 as the International Year of Natural Fibres.  Wool is one of the best known natural fibers. Sheep have been used by man for clothing as far back as 8,000 BC, but was not spun into fiber and made into cloth until about 3,000 BC. Wool was an important part of economies of Babylon, Rome, and, later, Spain and England. In fact, wool was so important to Spain and England that until 1786, Spain imposed the death penalty on anyone exporting sheep; and King George III of England punished those trading in wool in the Colonies. Sheep are now found in most countries of the world, surviving in places that other animals cannot. Countries with the largest wool production are Australia, China, New Zealand, Argentina and Uruguay.
 
What are some of the wool’s characteristics that make it such a great choice for clothing? Wool is very comfortable to wear even year-round. In winter, wool absorbs moisture allowing a dry, warm layer of air to surround the body. In summer, this ability to pull moisture away from the body allows cooling by evaporation of perspiration. Wool resists wrinkling and soiling. It’s durable, is resistant to flame, and dyes beautifully. It also felts (shrinks) easily. Felting has the advantage of making strong, thick fabrics. Controlled felting also gives a softer finish to woven fabric. However, felting is the same reason wool must be dry cleaned, not laundered.
 
Some wool has been processed to be machine washable. Wool felts because scales on the fibers interlock with each other during agitation with heat and water. Several processes can remove these scales. One process is to coat the fibers with a resin that covers the scales. Wool treated this way is designated “Superwash.” Another method is enzymatic treatment of the wool to remove its scales.
 
What about wool allergies? A true wool allergy is rare and is due to the lanolin on the wool. Lanolin allergy can be determined by a patch test. What most of use experience is irritation from the scratchiness of the wool scales. Wearing one of the “Superwash” or other processed wools might alleviate this irritation. One quick way to determine if you will be sensitive to a fiber or garment is to rub it along your neck. 
 
One big movement is the use of eco-friendly fibers in clothing. Conventional wool production can include dipping of sheep in pesticides, use of hormones and antibiotics, overgrazing, and use of harsh chemicals during processing. Organic wool avoids these. However, the higher cost of organic wool production results in higher priced garments.
 
Although we think of wool mainly from sheep, other animal coats can also produce wool. These other specialty wools include alpaca (from the alpaca), mohair (angora goat), cashmere (Kasmir goat), angora (angora rabbit), camel hair (camel), vicuna (vicuna), llama (llama), and quivet (muskox).
 
In future posts, I’ll describe other common natural fibers—silk, cotton, and, linen. And we’ll explore some of the newer plant fibers—bamboo, soy, seacell.